What If Shaving With The Grain Doesn’t Work? (2020 Surprising Results)


Is dermaplaning just shaving?

What if shaving with the grain doesn’t work properly and you’re missing hairs when you shave?

We already spoke last month about how shaving with the grain refers to shaving in the direction of hair growth which is what razor companies generally recommend.

So on your face, start at the top by the sideburns and shave in a downward motion only rather than shaving in both directions. Beginner shavers are advised to do this as you can develop razor burn or razor bumps by irritating the skin when shaving against the direction of hair growth.

The thing is that while shaving with the grain is the recommended shaving method, it doesn’t necessarily give you the best shave.

I Shave Against The Grain

The first time I tried shaving against the grain on my neck as a teenager, I cut myself and irritated my skin badly. It caused red marks that remained on my neck for several days. So I didn’t shave against the grain for some time.

Mind you I was also using the razors that were available at the time and those were single and double blades. And of course I chose the cheap BIC disposables. One blade, no pivoting head, no lubricating strip. Just a blade and handle.

Once I got better at shaving and chose a better quality blade, I tried shaving against the grain again after reading about guys doing it. It worked better this time around. I still do it to this day on my face and head.

Specifically, I shave my throat area and the back of my head against the grain. I don’t have a lot of hair left on the top of my head around the forehead but I shave against the grain there too. With no trouble.

Maybe you’ve shaved against the grain or are thinking about it. Perhaps you had a bad experience already like I did the first few times I tried. In this case, you might be searching for a few alternatives. Here they are.

Shave Against The Grain But Better

But take more care and use better shaving gear and use better technique that you used the last time you shaved with the grain, if you tried previously. More specifically:

Consider using a single blade razor such as a double edge (DE) razor. With only one blade, it causes less friction against the skin as opposed to 2 or more blades scraping your skin. Plus DE razors cut hair at skin level not below the skin like multi-blade and electric shavers which use the lift-and-cut system.

Shave slower and more carefully. If you’re going to shave against the grain, take slower strokes.

Rinse more frequently. Rinse the blade under running water more frequently. This keeps it clean and free of hair and shaving cream which can inhibit the quality of shave.

Shave Across The Grain

Ok, so you are not going to shave against the grain for whatever reason. You still have other options. One is to shave across the grain, which involves shaving horizontally rather than up and down vertically.

Hold the razor like in the photo below.

What if shaving with the grain doesn't work?
Shaving across the grain involves shaving across the direction of hair growth rather than with or against it. This may offer a closer shave than just shaving with the grain without the skin irritation often caused by shaving against the grain. Hold the razor at this angle and slowly shave across the grain from one side to another.

Shaving across the grain could be used on the neck for example especially in and around the throat where the protruding Adam’s Apple often makes it more difficult to shave. Check out this page for some shaving tips including how to shave the Adam’s Apple more effectively.

Use An Electric Shaver

Electric shavers generally come in two styles: Rotary head and foil head.

Rotary head shavers usually come with 2 or 3 rotating heads that move in a circular fashion. You slowly move the shaver in small circles across your skin to gently lift the whiskers right before shaving them. You can also use them in an up and down fashion but using a circular motion is generally how you’ll see them used

Foil head shavers used to come with a single foil but are now available with 2 rounded metal foils that cover the cutting tool. A foil shaver has an oscillating cutting tool below the foil that moves left and right to cut your whiskers. Foil shavers are used in an up and down fashion. Moving in a circular motion isn’t recommended and doesn’t work. I’ve tried.

Modern rotary and foil shavers are available in wet/dry styles. This means you can use them wet in the shower and often with shaving cream. Or you can use them to shave dry with no shaving cream, or your bare face. Check each model you’re considering to see the specs.

One advantage that rotary head shavers have traditionally had over foil shavers is floating pivoting heads. When you apply pressure on each rotating head, it depresses against your skin. It also pivots to different angles on your face. This is helpful for areas where the angle of your skin changes such as your jawline, neck and Adam’s Apple.

As mentioned above, electric shavers offer you the ability to shave in different directions. Remember, with an electric shaver the cutting tool is protected by a metal covering. It isn’t actually touching your skin directly, unlike a razor blade. They do also lift and cut the hairs offering a close shave. You do need to be careful if you suffer from ingrown hairs though. Using it as a wet shaver with shaving cream may help.

An electric shaver might be worth looking at if you can’t shave against the grain but aren’t getting a close enough shave when shaving with the grain.

Conclusion: What if shaving with the grain doesn’t work

  • What if shaving with the grain doesn’t work well enough for you? You might try shaving against the grain but use the tips and suggestions above to avoid skin irritation and razor burn.
  • You can also try shaving across the grain, across the direction of hair growth, rather than simply shaving with the grain.
  • An electric razor might also help you achieve a better shave since they allow shaving in different directions.
  • Even the razor companies themselves like Gillette offer advice on shaving against the grain.
  • Before you use aftershave though, check this out to see the pros and cons.

What if shaving with the grain doesn’t work for your shaving needs? Let us know below in the comments if you have experience (good or bad) shaving against the grain.

Carl Mueller

I'm a bald guy with beard (goatee) who blogs about shaving, head shaving, style and grooming ideas for men.

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